1. Why Acclimatization Fails
Most failures occur due to:
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Rapid humidity loss
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Direct light shock
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Insufficient root development
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Infections from non-sterile soil
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Inability to self-regulate water and gas exchange
Even well-prepared plants can show signs of stress if environmental conditions change too fast.
2. Common Physiological Symptoms
Symptom | Cause | Action |
---|---|---|
Wilting | Cuticle too thin to prevent water loss | Increase humidity; vent slowly |
Leaf burn | Light intensity too high | Move to shaded area |
Chlorosis | Poor photosynthesis or nutrient uptake | Feed lightly, reduce stress |
Necrosis | Desiccation or infection | Prune and isolate if needed |
Abscission | Stress response | Maintain stable RH and temp |
📌 Visual Guide to Acclimatization Issues
3. Rooting and Substrate Issues
Poor adaptation post-transfer can happen if:
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Agar is not properly removed, promoting rot
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Roots are trimmed too harshly
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Medium is waterlogged or nutrient-poor
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Temperature stress stalls uptake
Solutions:
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Use gentle rinse, no scrubbing
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Ensure loose, well-drained potting mix
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Apply low-strength starter fertilizer after 3–5 days
4. Pathogens and Contamination
Once exposed to open air and soil, plantlets are vulnerable to:
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Damping-off fungi (e.g., Pythium, Rhizoctonia)
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Leaf blight
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Crown and root rot
Prevention:
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Sanitize trays and tools
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Avoid overhead watering early on
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Use biological fungicides or beneficial microbes (e.g., Bacillus subtilis, Trichoderma)
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Quarantine infected trays
📌 Biocontrol in Plantlet Acclimatization
5. Prevention = Observation + Gradual Change
To reduce stress:
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Vent domes slowly over 7–10 days
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Introduce light progressively
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Avoid sudden temperature swings
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Check for mold daily
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Track humidity, temperature, and leaf status
Daily monitoring with a logbook can help identify stressors early.